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    Entries in jam (6)

    Monday
    Feb072011

    Fresh, healthy, fast and easy: Strawberry jam

    This was too easy. Homemade strawberry jam in under an hour - without all the fuss and production of my tried and true methods of the past.

    An old friend of mine in Salt Lake City married this woman from France. She and I were trading jam making war stories, and it seems like I’ve been doing it the hard way all this time. To loosely interpret from the original French:

    Valerie: “WTF? I just boil the fruit until it gets thick.

    Maven: “Huh?

    What? No pectin? No tons of sugar? No big pots? No MGM production? Yup. These French women. They are wily. And they know how to look great without makeup. Hmmmm. Simple jam process, no makeup. Could piss me off.

    Oh, la la. I had a three pack of great big fat strawberries from the Whole Paycheck market sitting in the refrigerator. Mr. Maven and I were’nt eating them fast enough. Gotta do something quick.

    This was too easy. Although I’m an experienced jam and preserve maker, this was a more relaxed approach, without all the equipment, measuring and fussing. While I waited for the jam to cook to the right consistency, I had time to go out and refill the birdfeeders and other small chores - all the time checking and stirring.

    The final results were stunning. This jam had a very clear, honest strawberry flavor to die for, without an awful lot of sugar like store bought jams. Tonight, we spooned a bit into some Bulgarian yogurt for dessert after dinner, and “Oh, yum”. This tasted like those expensive gourmet jams, at about a third the price.

    Ingredients - makes two half pints plus a bit more. Time: under one hour

    Three heaping baskets of strawberries, sliced

    1-3/4 cups sugar

    1/4 cup agave nectar

    pinch of sea salt

    Juice of one lemon

    Juice of one tangerine, or a half orange

    Zest of one lemon, grated or very finely minced

    Note: you can use all sugar if you wish, and omit the agave nectar.

    Technique

    In a large, heavy bottomed pot combine the fruit, sugar, citrus juice, zest and salt. Heat over medium high, stirring frequently, until it comes to a boil and the sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Reduce heat, maintaining a low boil - watch carefully if you’re new to this - stirring occasionally.

    Test the jam on the back of a cold spoon, or keep a couple small pyrex dishes in the freezer for testing. Just take a spoonful of the cooking jam and put it into the cold dish to see how fast it thickens.

    When the liquid starts to reduce about half way into cooking time, you need to closely monitor the mixture so that it doesn’t scortch or burn on the bottom. Stir well into the ‘corners’ of the pot.

    When it reaches a thick syrupy consistancy, it’s time to turn off the heat and ladle into clean, hot jam jars with lids. Lightly screw on the lids, so the trapped air can escape. Test lids for seal.

    For further technique on traditional jam making, see my other posts.

    I’m looking foward to trying this with other fruit as it comes available. Stay tuned.

    -maven

    P.S. - A reader and neighbor keeps telling me that I should offer informal classes in some of this stuff … like the jam making. What do you think? Would you be interested in spending a few hours on a Saturday, so that you have the confidence to do this on your own?

    Wednesday
    Jan122011

    Carrot confiture. C'est ce bonne.

    Almost anything serves to inspire me, when it comes to cooking. The Tzimmes dish by my friend Suggie, a carrot-fest in a pot with beef short ribs, got me thinking carrots - sweetened. The confiture seemed like a logical extension of that idea.

    A ‘confiture’ is simply the French way of saying ‘jam’ or ‘preserves’. However, the process in making a confiture is considerably different from the way we normally make home-made jams - even the way I make them. Mainly, the difference is in jam making you will use some sort of pectin product to thicken the jam. In a confiture, the thickening is produced by cooking the sugar-fruit mixture ‘down’. It’s simpler and more straight forward, if you have more time on your hands. The cooking down process, in this case for example, takes about 30 minutes - after I cooked the carrots and the lemon/tangerine rind.

    Here’s the drill:

    Prep time: 15 minutes      Cooking time: First stage - 30 minutes   Second stage - 30 minutes

    Makes 2 to 2-1/2 cups carrot confiture

    You need: One medium deep pot with straight sides, and a heavy bottom to prevent burning and scorching.

    Ingredients:

    One medium sized bag of baby carrots, sliced into ‘coins’

    2-1/2 cups sugar

    1/2 cup honey

    a pinch each salt and pepper

    Rind of one each lemon and tangerine (or small orange) - sliced into thin ‘julienned’ slices

    Julienne slice

    Juice of 2 lemons

    Juice of one tangerine or small orange

    10 whole almonds, finely chopped

    1/2 cup brandy

    Carefully slice the colored part of the rind from both the lemon and tangerine (or orange). Julienne cut those slices into thin strips. Juice the lemons and tangerine (or orange). In a pan, combine the fresh juice and sugar with a pinch of salt and pepper. Over medium high heat, stirring frequently, cook until the sugar is completely dissolved and the citrus strips are looking cooked. This should take about 15 minutes. Don’t let it boil over or scorch.

    While the citrus strips are cooking, boil/steam or microwave the carrots in plain water with a pinch or two of salt, until they are tender. Drain and then process in a food processor - using the pulse function - to a rough, small chunk stage. Don’t take it to a paste. Remove to a heavy bottomed pot. Pulse the nuts to a fine chop. Add to the pot. Add in the cooked citrus peel and sugar, the brandy and honey. Bring up the heat to medium high and boil - cooking about 10 minutes.  Reduce the heat as needed and cover, cooking until the liquid reduces and the carrots are looking glassy and ‘jammy’- which should take about 20 minutes more. Watch carefully for scorching on the bottom, stirring frequently.

    When the liquid has completely reduced and you have a thick, lucious ‘jammy’ concoction, take it off the heat and store in glass jars in the refrigerator. Now you have a healthy and really low-sugar ‘jam’ to top your toast with, loaded with lovely carrot and nut goodness.

    This rocks as a regular jam, but also in crepes, and as a condiment for fish, pork, lamb and poultry, or with crackers and cheese.

    -maven

    Saturday
    Aug222009

    Cantaloupe jam is summertime harvest at its best

    The cantaloupes are really coming into their own now at the farmers’ markets and stores, and they make one of the most beautifully colored jams ever. I’m always surprised that people don’t try using them in this way.

    Click to read more ...

    Saturday
    Aug222009

    Amazing Kiwi Ginger Jam recipe

    Oh, my. It’s so incredibly good. I’ve been thinking about using some of those kiwis that you can buy in the big plastic boxes at Costco for jam for quite a long time. Today was the day to try it.

    Click to read more ...

    Thursday
    Nov202008

    How to make a simple cranberry relish for your Thanksgiving feast

    Cranberry relish is a tangy sauce that is a favorite at holiday meals. Allen Smith shares his recipe for an easy way to make this side dish using just three simple ingredients

    Click to read more ...

    Wednesday
    Sep242008

    Summertime in a jar: Step-by-step guide to making home made jam

    Today might be the first day of Autumn, but much of the country still has bountiful access to many type of fruits and berries at the local farmers market or grocery store and will for some time to come. Fall is also the time for some different fruits that also can be made into great jams, jellies, conserves, spreads and such.

    It’s not hard, doesn’t take a long time or elaborate equipment. Really, it’s just about getting everything you need together and organized. I’ve been doing this for more than 40 years so it’s become something of a no-brainer, but I taught Natacha (the African gal that lives with us) to do this in just a couple of sessions. She’s fully able to make jam on her own now.

    In this technique post, you can see, step by step how to put the best of summer and autumn into a jar for later gift giving or just enjoying it yourself.

    First set up your workspace, with a deep heavy bottom pot with handles, a good long handled spoon for stirring, a large pot of simmering water to keep your jars and lids hot and sterile until time to fill them, a few bowls for fruit, a potato masher, a one cup dry measure and a tablespoon measure, a canning funnel, tongs and a timer or watch with a second hand. You’ll also need a way to juice fresh lemons. Have some paper towels handy and a couple of clean dishtowels.

    Put your clean jars, rings and new lids ( never re-use the flat lids with the rubberized ring coating) into the simmering water and just keep it hot. You’ll want to use a pair of tongs to get each jar  and the lids out.

    Get your pectin packets in a handy place with a pair of scissors to open it. I always have one extra packet of liquid pectin ( which I prefer to the powder version, which takes a different technique. Never, ever mix or confuse the two.) as I’ll get just a tablespoon extra of pectin and add it to my overall amount. This is because I like a firm set jam.

    Squeeze your lemon juice. Lemon juice from a bottle will NOT work. The amounts of pectin in the juice are different. Don’t substitute. Measure out your sugar into a bowl, so you can easily and quickly add it. Put a couple of small custard cups or something like that into the freezer to get good and cold. You’ll use these to test the ‘set’ of your jam.

    Then prepare your fruit according to what ever instructions or recipe you are using. There are many great guides to canning, and there are also simple to follow recipes right in the Certo Liquid Pectin box. That’s just fine for your first time making jam.

     

    For this strawberry jam recipe you’ll need: 4 cups of mashed ripe strawberries, 7 cups of sugar, 2 tablespoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice, a tablespoon of butter and one packet of Certo Liquid Pectin. If you like a firmer set, as I do, then add another tablespoon of lemon juice and an extra tablespoon of pectin. I also like just a tiny bit ( a quarter tablespoon) of cinnamon, and I also add a few threads of saffron. But that’s entirely optional.

     

     

    Add your prepared fruit to the pot, with a dollop of butter. You must add the butter, as it helps to control the foaming. Now bring it up to a good rolling boil, taking care not to burn it on the bottom, and stir pretty frequently. Now isn’t the time to talk on the phone or be distracted.

    A little story: the only batches of jam that were total goofs and didn’t set were batches I made recently with a particularly chatty friend. I was distracted at nearly ever moment by chit-chat. I can’t work like that. It’s a creative endeavor for me - I need to work alone or with somebody who is really low key. By the way, there is a do-over process that usually works, although the flavor isn’t as bright and nice.

    Open your pectin packet, and as you can see, I stand it up in a measuring cup or heavy glass so it won’t tip and spill out. If I’m making multiple batches, I’ll open a spare packet and put it into a spare jam jar with a lid. That’s where I get my extra tablespoon of pectin to add to each packet. When you add the pectin, just squeeze it straight out of the open packet into the hot fruit mixture, making sure to get all you can from the packet.

    After bringing the fruit to a full boil, add your pectin in one swift action. Have your timer or wristwatch with a sweep second hand at the ready. As you add the pectin and stir to incorporate it into the hot fruit, the boil will slow almost to a stop. Bring it back up to a full rolling boil as you can see below. As soon as it reaches this stage start your timer and boil for one minute.

    As the minute is up, turn off the heat and move the pot to a cool area. Reset your timer to five minutes and start. This gives the mixture a chance to redistribute the fruit and stabilize before you put it into the jars.

    During the five minute period, pull one of the chilled custard cups from the freezer and take a couple of spoonfuls of the hot mixture and put it into the dish. Cooling rapidly you should be able to see some almost immediate thickening. Remember that some fruits take longer, up to a couple of days to truly set. Stone fruits like peaches can be harder to get a firm set. I’m not real fussy about a softer set with some fruits like that.

    Get a hot jar and lids from the kettle, drain and set on a paper towel. Using the funnel, fill  only to about 1/4 inch from the top. You need this ‘head room’ so the vacuum action can happen and properly seal the jars.

    After filling each jar, and do just one at a time, carefully wipe the rim of the glass with a clean, dampened paper towel to remove any residue or drips which could ruin your seal.

    Now you’re ready to put the lid on and then the ring. One thing beginners tend to get wrong is under-tightening or over-tightening this ring. Just give it a quick gentle twist until it stops. If you over-tighten the air from the head space cannot escape and create a vacuum. Under tightening can produce similar results.  Set each finished jar aside on a soft towel to cool overnight. As the cool, you’ll hear the distinct ‘plink’ sound of the dimple in the center of the lid as it is literally sucked in by the vacuum. When you can’t push that button, you’ve got a secure seal and your jam will be safe for at least one year in a cool dark pantry.

    So here are a few examples of the finished product. In just one afternoon, I made two batches of strawberry saffron ( about 7 jars each ) and a batch of raspberry pepper … it’s really good. I take fresh raspberries, add my saffron threads and a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper. It will be great on toast but better on roast chicken or pork as a glaze.

    If you decide this canning thing is for you, then buy ‘Blue Ribbon Preserves’ by Linda j. Amendt. It’s as comprehensive as they come. One word of warning, Linda is seriously into the Fair and Exhibition aspect, so she goes to lengths that I don’t.  A lot of it is about appearances of the final product. However, my jams have really sold well, when I did that, and one summer I probably went through about 50 cases of jars to keep my customers happy, and they still drop hints that they’d like some more …. especially the tomato basil marmalade which is a hit when spooned over a cream cheese ball, or used as a glaze on fish, pork or chicken. Heck, I’m just a real fan of tomato jam and like it on toast or a roast chicken sandwich instead of mayo.

    So give it a try. Winter is no reason to quit …. that’s the season for citrus. Yummmm - marmalade.

    You might also want to give my marmalade recipes a try: the Tomato-Saffron, or the Meyer Lemon and ginger marmalade are super.

    maven