My, oh my Umami: by any other name a vivid taste sensation

Umame ( 旨味 or うま味 ) is the Japanese name for the taste sensation produced by monosodium glutamate. This is one of the five basic tastes. The same taste is referred to as Xian Wei ( 鮮味 ) in Chinese cooking.

Elusive, mysterious and difficult to describe, Umami is a primary taste, hence one that cannot be produced by combining other flavors. It is exactly this difficulty in describing something that is earthy, salty without being salty, savory and ultimately deeply and soulfully satisfying that kept Umami from taking its rightful place in our lexicon of tastes sooner.

To think Umami, think anchovies, avocados, grilled mushrooms, asparagus, parmesan and Roguefort cheeses, balsamic vinegar, lobster, oysters and scallops, red wine and even Worcestershire sauce. You could rightly describe fish sauces — among them the pissalat of Provence, nuoc-mam of Vietnam, nam pla of Thailand and nuc nam of China as Umami bombs, providing the clearest and most compelling expression of the taste.

Some experts, especially those who have lived in Japan, see Umame as more than a purely mechanical process of stimulating certain receptors in the tongue. They almost approach it with a philosophical or Zen-like appreciation, describing Umame as the essence of fullness or satisfaction. Some have even described the experience of Umami in terms of color as a metaphor for the more vivid taste that it provides.

Unagi, found in most sushi bars, when perfectly and freshly prepared is my own personal perfect expression of Umami.

Whichever way you approach it, Umame has found its way into foods for many years, particularly years ago with MSG ( Monosodium Glutamate) which is found naturally in many of our favorite foods. For a time, however, it fell from grace as many people thought it produced migraine headaches and other medical problems. Glutamate, a cousin to MSG, is actually produced in the human body. The food industry has, for many years, introduced ingredients similar to MSG into many foods to enhance their toothsome properties without much comment from the public.

Historically, people began talking about the possible presence of this elusive fifth flavor element as early as the Romans and through the late 1880’s. Famed chef Auguste Escoffier experimented with what we now call Umami in his restaurant in the late 19^th century. But it wasn’t until 1907 experiments at Tokyo Imperial University that even Asian food experts began to take the fifth element seriously. This research actually led to the invention and production of MSG, which is still available on supermarket shelves under the brand name of Accent.

It wasn’t until recent experiments by scientists at the University of Miami, who found evidence of actual receptors on the tongue which responded to the Umami element that more food scientists, chefs and gourmands really began to consciously introduce the experience to the dining public.

Many chefs have always suspected Umami, or something like it existed in the sense of an additional dimension either present or missing from their recipes. They now deliberately search for those Umami elements, to amp up that indefinable resonance of many favorite dishes, such as using Vietnamese Fish Sauce in a Boulliabase.

For an interesting look into the world of fish sauce, check out the following blogsite:

http://vietworldkitchen.typepad.com/blog/2008/05/fish-sauce-tast.html

As we become older, and certainly more health conscious, looking for ways to lower sodium in our diet is increasingly more important. There are those who think Umami just might be one way to up the flavor of a dish while keeping the salt content in check. Another interesting idea: making food more tasty and palatable for fussy children and older people who, in the normal course of aging, find that their sense of taste has diminished.

Home cooks who have turned on to the Umami experience are also rethinking the essentials that belong in their pantry, when only one element seems to be missing … that certain ‘something’. Umami is a quick and easy way to boost flavor dramatically by waking up taste buds you never knew you had.

Those wishing to bring the Umami experience home might want to take a look at the following cookbook: http://www.amazon.com/Fifth-Taste-Cooking-Umami/dp/0789313561?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1197647897&sr=1-1

It must be good, since it’s currently unavailable. So, check your local library.