The Stone House Cafe: Still the best of the best in Reno
Tuesday, February 1, 2011 at 22:14 As my husband and I were walking back to the car from the Stone House Cafe, after a fabulous lunch, I told him that we should make a ‘date’ of this, once a week. He agreed.
Somehow we just got out of the habit of the Stone House on Plumb and Arlington, but Chef Paul Abowd has worked magic and it’s as good, if not better than it ever was. Today, we were killing time before an appointment, and the Stone House was close. The place was packed with a jovial lunchtime crowd, but there were several seats at the bar and I snagged those while he parked the car. I enjoy sitting at the bar for meals, where I can watch the action. In this case, the tattooed lady who deftly commanded the Stone House bar was poetry in motion - she glided effortlessly from customer to customer, serving exotic Bloody Mary’s, giving me a sip of rare vodka, explaining the myriad of luscious sounding specials.
She’s good. Very good.
I opted for the sole, which reminded me of France. Delicately enrobed with the lightest egg batter, it was firm, moist and thoroughly fresh and delicious, wearing a Bearnaise sauce with capers. I’m cutting down on carbs lately, and avoid most refined grains anyway, so asked to skip the rice. Tattooed lady never skipped a beat, and offered a few more veggies. Oooooh la la. The veg were perfection. Chunks of tender summer squash, butternut squash, carrot and broccoli would tempt the most ardent carnivore. The buttery, crisply toasted bread was the right counterpoint to the tender fish. I might as well have been storming the Bastille. I hardly put the fork down.
Mr. Maven went for the pork chop. I had reservations about that since I find most pork in restaurants overcooked, too thick, dry and flavorless - then they drown it in a regrettable gravy in an attempt to save the thing. Not at the Stone House.
We’re talking moist, tender and everything that you hope a pork chop to be. The mild barbeque sauce was nicely balanced in every way. Ultimate comfort food on a winter’s day. It was attended by caramelized onions, a veggie melange and mashed spuds.
As we were sitting at the bar, waiting for our meal, I remarked that the vibe at Stone House is exactly what I like in a local restaurant. You can feel the positive energy of the staff and patrons. There is plenty of animated conversation and interaction, yet it isn’t overwhelming or tiring. The Stone House atmosphere is much like the menu and the food - well balanced, hip and yet comforting, welcoming. It’s confident without being cocksure.
The Stone House understands what the locals want and when. I’ve dropped in there for late lunch - I’m talking 3:00 in the afternoon late - and no worries. Another nice thing is getting smaller portions is no problem - even for dinner. We just can’t handle a boatload of food at a sitting anymore, and the Stone House seems to take it all in stride, making a tweak here and an adjustment there. Getting it just right, and maximizing the customers experience seems to trump all other considerations. What a nice change that is from the chain restaurant hard line, and another reason (if you needed one) to eat locally.
I look forward to the warmer months, when I can ride my bike to the Stone House for breakfast - parking my bike tableside on the tree covered patio, to enjoy a cafe latte and people watch.
The Stone House Cafe is a well-refined classic that Reno is lucky to have. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner. Full bar.
1907 Arlington Avenue, Reno, Nevada 775.284.3895
-maven
